Belfast, Ireland
This morning we had breakfast at the university cafeteria. No, the "full Irish breakfast" is no different from the full English breakfast -- cooked eggs, bacon, sausage, toast, fried potatoes, hot or cold cereal, juice and coffee or tea.
After breakfast we arranged a "Black Taxi Tour" of the political areas, then we left for a walking tour of the downtown area.
For starters, we walked by the Queens University Belfast. It has an architecturally beautiful building that was designed in 1849, modeled after Oxford's Magdalen College. We did not tour because they were in the midst of graduation exercises.
We then walked "The Golden Mile" of Belfast along Great Victoria Street. It contains many of the "gems" of Belfast, including the Grand Opera House, which was cyclically bombed by the IRA, restored at great cost, and bombed again. Another is the Crown Liquor Saloon, which has been restored to a showcase of carved wood, gilded ceilings and stained glass. A third significant building is the Europa Hotel. It has the dubious distinction of being "Europe's most bombed hotel" with 32 bombs in it's history.
We then walked through the "Cornmarket" area. This area has been a marketplace since Belfast's early days. It is now primarily a pedestrian shopping area. We had a very tasty lunch in the Cornmarket area, then we headed back to the university for our tour.
At 2, Wyn (a rider from Texas), Bill (a rider from New Jersey), and Cheryl (staff from Minnesota) joined Lisa and I on a Black Taxi Tour. The tour took us to Shankill Road in the center of the Protestant area, then to and across the Peace Line, which is the infamous wall between the Catholic and the Protestant areas, then to Falls Road in the center of the Catholic area.
It is incredible that this intense rivalry goes back to the 15th century! There is such bitter feelings between the Protestants and the Catholics that neither dares visit anyone in the other area during the day, nor even set foot in the other area after dark. They still randomly beat up and/or kill one another in "turf battles."
We saw many murals on the walls of buildings in the Protestant section, a few on the Catholic Section. The murals depict various military factions in baklava's (full head covers with eye and mouth holes) holding automatic weapons or martyrs (people who have died for "the cause") or the "flag" of the military faction.
We saw piles of wood, tires, old furniture and other debris waiting to be set on fire on the 12th (or before.)
Oh, I don't think I talked about the 12th. On July 12 every year there is a big Orange march protesting the move to join Northern Ireland (or Ulster as the Protestant English call it) with Ireland. On the 12th there is a HUGE bonfire in the center of the Protestant section commemorating the day. The buildup to the protest starts on July 2 with the collection of bonfire materials, demonstrations, protests and night riots.
We saw last night's riots, protests, barricades and car fires on television tonight. After dark, we heard the wop - wop - wop of helicopters until the wee hours of the morning. Lisa was glad we'd be leaving soon!
After dinner tonight, Tim (TK&A) dropped a bomb on the group -- he handed out a revised schedule for the next 6 months. No Russia. No Japan. 5 days in Helsinki instead of Russia. And, in lieu of Japan, 15 days in Cairnes, Australia with one short riding day.
There was LOTS of unhappiness and dis-satisfaction about the new schedule. MANY, MANY riders expressed the desire for keeping both Russia and Japan as options. Also, there was displeasure expressed about the long layover in Cairnes. Anyway, Tim said he would take the comments into consideration. Also, he said he would try to facilitate a visit to St Petersburg for those who wanted to go to Russia.
Finally he told the group that the ferry tomorrow did not leave at 9 o'clock in the morning as earlier indicated, but rather at 7:40. That meant everyone had to be at the ferry terminal at 6:40 a.m.
The meeting ended at 10:30. We went back to the dorms, packed, and listened to the helecopters flying over.
Love to all, David and Lisa
|