Norway, Forde to Sogndal
Today was Larry's and Joan's riding day so we were set to drive. I found a pamphlet about a waterfall route in the area. One of the spectacular falls was just 8 KM's up the road so we decided to ride up to the falls, visit them, and ride back.
When Joan came out, she decided the weather was too threatening and she didn't want to ride. So she read while Lisa and I rode to the Huldefossen Falls.
As we rode up, sheep greeted us in the meadow below the falls. The falls were spectacular -- wide, full, rushing, white-water. One of the drops is 90 meters, followed by galloping cataracts racing down the water course.
We walked to the base of the falls. Ben and Sadie were sitting on the rocks. photographer Al was taking photos. We took a few pictures, enjoyed the roar and the spray of the falls, and headed back.
We agreed to give Rita (from Florida) a ride today for as far as possible. We loaded all three bikes on the car and headed down the road. Joan thought she might ride from checkpoint. We thought we would cross on the ferry and then ride.
Little did we know what was coming for us this day . . . .
We drove along a magnificent route. We saw mountains and meadows, waterfalls and rivers, fjords and beautiful, reflecting mountain lakes, and lots of flowers. The scenery is consistently beautiful -- not occasionally scenic, but CONSISTENTLY beautiful. Norway is probably the most beautiful country overall that we have seen so far.
We stopped to see Larry who was riding. As we started up, we smelled antifreeze. We stopped, looked, and sure enough, antifreeze was dripping from under the engine. We were in the middle of nowhere, and the temperature gauge was not moving, so we decided we should keep going until we got somewhere.
Suddenly the temperature gauge jumped to the top. We were still in the middle of nowhere. We stopped and emptied our water bottles in the radiator. The temp gauge went down. We continued slowly down the 10 KM at 8% hill using no gas. We got down the steep hill onto a flatter hill. I stepped on the gas. The motor died -- totally -- completely -- dead.
It still looked like the middle of nowhere. The road was typically narrow. I decided to try to coast to a wider place where we could pull off the road.
No steering. No brakes.
We made it to a bus stop. I muscelled the steering wheel and pulled off. I stood on the brakes to stop. We were off the road, in a bus pullout, and, coincidentally, at the end of a driveway to a house -- the only house in sight in any direction.
What a lovely setting! The house stood on a hill overlooking a big, beautiful lake. Across the lake were two waterfalls coming down from the snowpack at the top of the mountains surrounding the lake. The mountains and the waterfalls reflected in the lake.
We walked down the driveway to the house to see if we could use the phone. To make a long story short, we met a Norwegian family who all but adopted us.
The family included Eirna Mulelid Vetlefjord and Peder who own the house. Eirna's brother Petter Mulelid and his wife Grete, and her other brother Ansger were all visiting from Bergen. Grete spoke very good Englsh, Ansger and Peder spoke some English, Petter and Eirna spoke only a tiny bit of English.
Our first need was to call Peugeot to get the car fixed. It took us two hours to reach their 24 hour service number. During that time, Eirna offered us coffee and two kinds of coffee cake (home-made, of course).
With Grete's continuous help, we finally got thru to Peugeot. They agreed to send a tow truck to take the the car to a Peugeot dealer and a taxi to take us to get a rental car.
As soon as we got off the phone, Eirna and Grete invited us to stay for dinner. Of course, we declined. Of course they insisted -- and they won.
We had a wonderful dinner with Norwegian salmon,a variety of barbequed meat (including goat), home grown potatoes, vegetables and strawberries, and wine. All delicious!
Finally, at 6:30, we got a call from the towing company driver. He was going to bring us a substitute car and take the Peugeot. He needed directions. He would be here in about 2 hours. We sat and visited with Grete, Petter, Ansgar, Peder and Eirna.
We noticed they were constantly taking pictures of us. Sitting, eating, moving bikes, standing here and there. We were wondering why. They showed us photos and clippings from the local newspaper and from the Bergen newspaper. We figured that they thought of us as celebrities!
What great hospitality they gave us! What an experience!! We wouldn't trade it for anything!
The tow truck arrived about 9. The driver had brought a Toyota station wagon for us to use. He took the dead Peugeot. His directions were to take the Peugeot to his garage tonight, they take it to the Peugeot dealer on Forde on Monday. He thought he would know a prognosis for the car by noon, Monday.
We loaded up the Toyota. We said our thank-yous and goodbyes to our new Norwegian friends, gave them each a bottle of wine (we happened to have in the car), and left. They all gathered on their front porch to see us off. As we drove down the driveway, they were all there, waving. We decided to get an Odyssey poster, sign it and send it to them as a long-term thank-you gift.
After a long wait at the ferry, our drive to Sogndal took us on an absolutely beautiful route along the Sognefjorden fjord. We finally arrived at our lodging in Sogndal at midnight. Our key was waiting.
Another incredible day on our odyssey!
Love to all, David and Lisa
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